Reviewers Commentary
Last year, one of our Robert Parker Green Emblem awards went to Salcheto, a boutique estate in Tuscany’s Vino Nobile di Montepulciano appellation. This year, the award goes to its neighbor Avignonesi in the very same appellation.
The special recognition applies not just to these excellent individual wineries but also to the trailblazing Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wine region as a whole.
Earlier this year, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano became the first Italian denomination to be awarded the Equalitas sustainability standard following a three-year certification process. Equalitas was established by the Italian wine lobby Federdoc and is a demanding protocol that requires a high number of environmental requisites such as the measurement of carbon and water footprints, socio-economic compliance and the preparation of a detailed sustainability report.
Under the leadership of Belgium-born Virginie Saverys and her rambunctious Basque partner Maximilien de Zarobe, Avignonesi is a driving force behind this important appellation-wide accomplishment.
With 175 hectares of vines, Avignonesi is the largest biodynamic producer in Italy. It has pledged to make specific changes to positively impact our environment and society.
For example, Avignonesi supports local suppliers in order to promote the local community and reduce transportation impacts. Its agricultural practices encourage biodiversity in order to bring life to the soils. Trees are planted to preserve the forested areas. The winery has switched to biodegradable caps made from renewable raw materials. It saved 15 tons of glass by switching to lighter bottles in 2021, and cardboard boxes are made from 100% recycled sources. The property generates solar energy, and electricity comes from renewable sources. In 2021, the farm’s agricultural vehicles used 13% less fuel compared to 2020. Water use is monitored and optimized. Sulfur and copper are reduced, and all agrochemicals are banned. All wines are made and bottled at the winery, and 100% of the grapes come from the estate. Wines are fermented with indigenous yeasts.
Avignonesi is also dedicated to social sustainability. There is regular staff training for safety and wellbeing. The personnel are multinational and multiethnic. All employee terms meet or exceed minimum standards required by law. English lessons are offered to children in the community between the ages of 5 and 18.
In addition to that long list of accomplishments, Avignonesi was one of the first wineries in Italy to become a certified B Corporation, or a “benefit company,” in 2021.
This means that it puts sustainability on par with profitability. With an annual production of 600,000 bottles, Avignonesi posted 8.8 million euros in revenue in 2019 according to the Italian financial daily, 'Il Sole 24 Ore', with 50% from exports. Based on a points system, a company must meet a higher standard of transparency, accountability and performance to qualify as a B Corp by the non-profit B Lab that operates in 70 countries around the world..
About the Producer
Although its exact founding date is uncertain, Avignonesi may be one of Italy’s oldest wine estates. There are records of wine being made at the property spanning back to the 16th century. In 1974, the Avignonesi family (the estate’s previous owners) founded the modern wine brand. However, Avignonesi would enter a new chapter starting in 2009.
That’s the year Belgium-born shipping executive Virginie Saverys became full owner. Since her acquisition of Avignonesi, she has embarked on an ambitious program to improve wine quality and bring the spotlight back to Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, among Italy’s first DOCG red wines. She is committed to 100% estate-grown wines with special emphasis on sustainability, indigenous grapes, single-vineyard expressions and the guardianship of the singular Avignonesi habitat.
The portfolio of fully organic and biodynamic wines includes traditional reds such as Rosso di Montepulciano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Poggetto di Sopra that is part of a new subzone designation known locally as “Pieve.” There is the 100% Sangiovese IGT Toscana Grandi Annate as well as the celebrated Merlot-based Desiderio.
A few more interesting projects include the amphorae-fermented (with 10% whole cluster grapes) IGT Toscana Da.Di, named after the Chinese words for “earth” and “soil.” There is the IGT Toscana NABIT Wall (the acronym stands for “Not Another Brick in The”) that is also made in clay vessels, only this time the special blue clay called “argilla celeste” is dug up from the estate grounds. Punjabi potter Harpreet Singh, who lives in Tuscany, spins the clay into pots. His mud-caked hands are featured on the front label.
In addition to this creative menu of wines, Avignonesi’s circular experimental vineyard called La Tonda is one of the most photographed spots in Tuscany. Its Sangiovese fruit goes into a wine of the same name.
Last but not least is the 100-point Vin Santo di Montepulciano Occhio di Pernice, a singular labor of love that results in a small release of precious 375-milliliter bottles.