Littorai

Having farmed conventionally for many years, Ted Lemon became interested in other ways of approaching agriculture. Although Littorai has become synonymous with biodynamic farming, Lemon eschews certifications and its role in marketing, driving home instead the notion that actions speak louder than words. His philosophies incorporate several approaches to agriculture, including biodynamics, permaculture and agroecology, a combination he calls generative agriculture. Most (85%) of Littorai’s grapes are farmed biodynamically, while the remaining 15% are farmed organically. Walking the Littorai farm, visitors encounter vast compost piles, barrels of nettle tea and a plethora of botanicals and flowers laid out to dry, from fragrant chamomile to fluffy dandelion. There are only a few acres of vines planted—the rest of the farm is dedicated to natural spaces that will never be developed and pastureland for cows, chickens and sheep. Innovation at Littorai extends to the winery, which was built from straw bales and is powered by on-site solar panels. Water used in the winery is filtered through wetlands for reuse. Littorai’s impact on sustainability extends well beyond the boundaries of western Sonoma County. Ted Lemon has been a pivotal figure, influencing countless other winemakers and grape growers to change their farming methods. He has helped growers convert conventional vineyards to biodynamic, and his commitment to generative agriculture is a guiding light for many young winemakers focused on responsible farming. Certifications aside, Lemon has become one of the great mentors in the wine world, pushing others to follow his lead.

Littorai was founded in 1992 by winemakers Ted and Heidi Lemon. Ted earned an enology degree from the Université de Dijon in 1981 and went on to become a winemaker and vineyard manager at several estates in Burgundy, while his wife, Heidi, worked at several estates in Napa Valley. In 1992, the pair traveled across California in search of the best areas for growing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, deciding on spots in Mendocino County and the Sonoma Coast. The first Littorai wines appeared in 1993. Single vineyards are the focus, and Littorai was the first to vineyard-designate what are now known as some of the finest vineyards in California, notably the Charles Heintz vineyard in Sonoma and the Savoy vineyard in the Anderson Valley. In 2003, the Lemons purchased a 30-acre farm in west Sonoma County — it is biodynamically worked and self-sustaining, and only a small portion of land is dedicated to vines. Production is low, and evenly split between estate and grower vineyards. Many of these are long-term contracts dating back decades — Littorai has purchased fruit from Hirsch vineyard since 2004. Growers are paid by the acre rather than by ton, an important commitment both to wine quality and wine growers.