Reviewers Commentary
The first certified B-Corp winery in Europe and one of only 26 in the world, this ecologically minded producer has been certified organic (Ecocert) since 2002 and certified biodynamic since 2004 (Biodyvin) and 2008 (Demeter). Since 2006, horses have been used to cultivate the soils rather than tractors. Founder Robert Eden, an Englishman who has lived in France since 1994, has been called the Languedoc’s godfather of biodynamics. Not only has he walked the walk, he talks the talk, advising numerous others on how to pursue this method of farming. American partner Kevin Parker similarly puts his money where his mouth is, managing Sustainable Insight Capital Management, a firm that advises investors on investing in sustainable companies.
The winery itself is constructed out of plant-based “hempcrete” — bricks formed of hemp straw mixed with limestone and a molasses-based binder —and is energy self-sufficient, biodegradable and carbon-negative. Its grass-roofed structure requires no outside heating or cooling to maintain a steady, year-round temperature of 17 degrees Celsius (63 degrees Fahrenheit).
A sizable 15% of sales are donated to a fund that restores wildlife habitat in Languedoc, as the company’s belief in the benefits of biodiversity extends beyond the boundaries of its own vineyards. Its latest initiative — part publicity stunt, part genuinely aimed at reducing carbon emissions — delivers its wine across the Atlantic by sailboat rather than by container ship. With recent worldwide bottlenecks in logistics, deliveries earlier in 2022 were made faster than those by conventional means.
About the Producer
A star of the Languedoc, Château Maris consists of 45 hectares of vineyards in the appellation of Minervois La Livinière, covering a variety of different parcels. The focus is on red wines from Grenache and Syrah, largely vinified in concrete — there’s an extensive battery of concrete eggs — and matured in a mixture of concrete and oak vessels.
The attentiveness in the vineyards carries through to the winery, and the wines are consistently well made, readily reflecting their mostly sun-drenched terroir and well-drained soils, without tipping over into over-ripeness. Given the costs involved with this level of sustainability and social responsibility, the wines tend to be a bit more expensive than many of their neighbors’ offerings, but if you’re serious about sustainability, it’s a reasonable upcharge to bear.