Gabin et Félix Richoux

Even in the breezy, sunny climes of France’s Mediterranean coast, organic farming isn’t without its challenges; in Irancy’s northern and much more inhospitable locale, those challenges are even greater. What’s more, Irancy’s characterful red wines hardly command a premium in the market to reward the effort: despite its historic celebrity in the 19th century, Irancy fell on hard times after phylloxera, and the village only won an appellation of its own in 1998. In such circumstances, the decision to farm organically has material consequences: personal pleasures forsaken, vacations not taken. Thierry Richoux, however, has met those challenges and made those sacrifices; and in doing so, along with his friend Vincent Dauvissat in Chablis, he has proven that viticulture without herbicide, pesticide and fungicide is viable, even here, inspiring other growers to follow suit. Nor have his innovations ended there: Richoux has recently planted an experimental vineyard en echalas, each vine tied to its own individual stake, at such high density that it can only be cultivated by hand. Today, the vineyards of the Yonne (Chablis most prominent among them) remain predominantly chemically farmed and machine harvested. If we can be confident that this doesn’t represent the future, it’s because of pioneers such as Richoux.

Thierry Richoux—and now his sons Félix and Gabin—prove that Irancy’s wines can be a revelation. While one might assume that this northerly appellation would be the source of tangy, light-bodied reds, the amphitheater of hills that surrounds this charming medieval village are in fact capable of producing a decidedly virile, characterful style of Pinot Noir. Indeed, in sunny vintages such as 2015 and 2003, Irancy can be notably rich and gourmand. The Richoux family, pioneers of organic farming (and now certified as such), realize the region's potential, limiting their yields, harvesting by hand and maturing their wines for two years — the first year in foudre and tank, the second in smaller oak barrels. This fastidious approach combined with several unusually concentrated vintages means that there is a wealth of superb wine waiting in the wings at this excellent address — waiting, because the Richoux family believe in aging their Irancy for several years before selling it. This is a domaine with which all serious Burgundy lovers should acquaint themselves, and its wines come warmly recommended.