Petrolo

What will be the first certified-organic wine appellation in Europe? The race is on, and one of the top contenders is the Valdarno di Sopra DOC in Tuscany. This Green Emblem award recognizes the hard work and forward-thinking approach of a wine region located in an enchanting triangle of Tuscany that is equidistant from Florence, Arezzo and Siena. Specifically, it goes to a passionate winemaker with the enthusiasm and vision to create a certified-organic wine region recognized both by the Italian Ministry of Agriculture and the European Parliament. That man is Luca Sanjust of Petrolo. His region, the Valdarno di Sopra DOC, may not actually become the first (Spain’s D.O. Cava is also a contender and is further ahead in navigating Europe’s red tape), but Valdarno di Sopra is pushing hard to break down bureaucratic barriers and set a precedent for others to follow. The hope is that, one day, like-minded producers will easily be able to obtain organic certification on a regional basis. Valdarno di Sopra is one of four historic wine regions in Tuscany to surpass the 300-year-old mark. On September 24, 1716, Grand Duke of Tuscany Cosimo III de’ Medici signed a decree that established the geographic boundaries for Chianti (today identified as Chianti Classico, Pomino/Chianti Rufina, Carmignano and Valdarno di Sopra). Valdarno di Sopra is very small, and its diminutive size is exactly what gives the region the agility to try something this dynamic. In fact, all 15 wine estates represented in the appellation are already individually certified for organics, and together they unanimously created an association called Produttori VigneBio Valdarno to underline their commitment to sustainability. Robert Parker Wine Advocate has had a dedicated annual report on the wines from Valdarno di Sopra (the smallest report from Tuscany that we publish) since 2017. “The wine industry [in Italy] is much ahead of the food sector in creating a system that focuses on sustainability,” says Slow Food Italia President Barbara Nappini. She was one of a dozen experts called to participate in the Valdarno di Sopra Day that took place on May 16, 2023. Organized by Luca Sanjust and DOC authorities, the event explored the various ways of achieving recognition for organics on a European level. In 2018, Valdarno di Sopra approached the Italian Ministry of Agriculture to form a Bio (or organic) DOC appellation. Two years later, they were told that such a thing was impossible under European norms. In the meantime, Italian authorities blocked any modification to the appellation by-laws, thus creating more delay. However, consumers clearly back this initiative. “There is a strong trend to drink organic wine,” says Maria Grazia Mammuccini, president of Italy’s FederBio, a lobby for organic agriculture. “Ten years ago, only one in 50 consumers claimed to drink organic wine. Today, that number is one in two.” We wish Luca Sanjust and his Valdarno di Sopra DOC wine region the best of luck in achieving this goal. To celebrate his efforts and undying persistence, we are proud to honor him with this Green Emblem recognition. “We will get there,” Luca says. “Every step taken has reinforced our argument. At the end of the day, it comes down to creating quality wine.”

With a history that can be traced back to the ancient Etruscans and Romans, the Petrolo property is located between two ancient trade routes, the Cassia Vetus and Cassia Adrianea, in the southeast part of the Chianti mountains. The beautiful Petrolo Villa was built in 1724-1730, and the area was already well known for its excellent wines made from so-called “franzose” (or French) grapes, plus Sangiovese, Trebbiano and others. Luca Sanjust’s grandfather acquired Petrolo in 1947. He continued to make wine at the estate, but his friendship with the celebrated enologist Giulio Gambelli inspired production of fine wines, with a first bottling in 1958. Luca’s mother, Lucia, continued on this path, and the wine Torrione (Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) was born in 1988. Luca took over in 1991 with his wife, painter-artist Sabina Mirri. Their son, Rocco, was born that same year. Luca created the iconic Merlot-based wine Galatrona in 1994, the same year his daughter, Lucia, was born. The single-vineyard Sangiovese Bòggina C was created in 2006, and the amphorae-aged Sangiovese Bòggina A was added in 2011. A terrific white wine made with Trebbiano called Bòggina B was first produced in 2014. There is also a Cabernet Sauvignon called Campo Lusso. Luca is joined in winemaking by son Rocco and consulting enologist Carlo Ferrini.